Galle International Stadium

Atmosphere & Experience: 10

It’s perfect, or as near to it as you’re ever going to get. Sat out on a grass bank, surrounded by passionate Sri Lankan fans or away supporters making the cricket trip of a lifetime, you come to appreciate the power and the beauty of cricket. When impromptu games break out all around you during the lunch and tea intervals, you’ll see cultures, nationalities, and generations come together with a childlike joy rarely experienced in everyday life. The relentless, restless hum of Galle’s traffic, the sound of the breeze coming in off the ocean, the distant crashing of waves that breaks through in the rare moments when a bus isn’t blaring its horn. It’s the perfect soundtrack. As the sun starts to go down and figures stood on the walls of the fort are silhouetted in the dying light, you won’t want the close of play to come.

On the walls, the atmosphere is relaxed and convivial. Sri Lankans strike up conversation with away fans and explain the rules to curious, but uninitiated, tourists.

Seats: 9

Booking in advance before travelling to Sri Lanka, I opted for a premium ticket in an air-conditioned marquee set up behind the bowler’s arm at the north end of the ground. Price-wise, it was comparable to a standard ticket to a Test match in the UK, roughly £100. I booked through eticketing.co. Honestly, I was a little worried my identity had been stolen as I booked. I breathed a sigh of relief when I arrived on the day and it turned out that I did, indeed, have a ticket and nobody other than me had been abusing my credit limit. Seats in the marquee were comfortable, and the air conditioning was a blissful relief from the heat, but I spent most of the day sitting around the grass banks and in the lower tier of the pavilion because it was much more atmospheric. I did get five drinks tokens with my premium ticket, which was a nice addition.

I don’t think I’ve sat anywhere more breathtaking to watch sport than the walls of the old fort. I had wanted to experience the view from there ever since I first saw a match from Galle on TV. It did not disappoint. Make sure you spend some time up there.

See the slideshow below for seating options, including the premium, air-conditioned marquee; the pavilion; the grass banks around the ground; and the walls of the iconic fort.

Catering: 9

For the uninitiated, kottu is a delicious Sri Lankan dish made from finely chopped, stir fried roti accompanied by meat and/or vegetables. If you haven’t tried it before, you could do a lot worse than the version served in the pavilion at Galle. It’s made before your eyes and it tastes divine. Lion beer is available on tap and you can get 1.5L bottles of water, which you’ll need. Especially if you find yourself facing an enthusiastic amateur Sri Lankan fast bowler armed with a tennis ball at lunch.

On the walls, the occasional drinks seller will do the rounds with water and soft drinks.

Facilities: 6

In the pavilion, they’re not great. Falling apart and not the cleanest.

No facilities at the fort.

Getting There: 9.5

A short walk or an even shorter tuktuk ride from inside the fort.

Getting to the walls of the fort is even easier if you’re already staying within them.

Getting Away: 9.5

With the heat losing its edge as the sun goes down, it’s a pretty comfortable walk back to the fort after the close.

If you’re on the walls at the close of play, consider walking around to west side of the fort to see the sun set over the Indian Ocean. A perfect end to a perfect day.

Weekend Potential: 10

If you’re an away fan, you’ll likely be visiting Galle as part of a longer trip to Sri Lanka. It’s absolutely worth spending at least two or three days in town to soak up the atmosphere, enjoy the great food, and spend some time watching play from the walls of the old fort. Before the start of play, enjoy breakfast at one of the restaurants and cafes with a rooftop terrace and view of the Indian Ocean. We started out day at Pedlar’s Corner Café, which, while perhaps not the highest-tier cuisine on offer within the walls of the Dutch Fort, but the coffee is pretty good and it has a commanding view of the waves crashing in. Once you’re done at the cricket, be sure to catch the sunset from the west side of the fort. You’ll have plenty of dinner choices in the old town. Consider Pedlar’s Inn Café and Restaurant, particularly if you’re into seafood, or Coconut Sambol for excellent Sri Lankan fare. Those who have been in Sri Lanka for a while and might be craving some home comforts will find that most international cuisines are well catered for given the volume of tourists who pass through town. Save room for dessert at Isle of Gelato, where you’ll find truly incredible ice cream in a range of interesting flavours, many incorporating Sri Lankan ingredients. There are plenty of craft and gift shops for mementoes You can pick up some charmingly kitsch Sri Lankan wall art at Stick No Bills. Absolutely make sure you spend plenty of time sat on the walls watching the cricket. Hardy souls will risk turning into leather by spending the whole day sat out in the blistering sun, others might opt to wait until the back half of the evening session when the sun begins to drop and the sea breeze takes the edge off the temperature. At this time of day you’ll be surrounded by schoolchildren and people who have just finished work all enjoying the closing overs and listening to the sound of leather on willow that occasionally manages to rise above the horns of cars and buses. The walls truly deserve their status as one of cricket’s most iconic sites and really are a must-visit.