Galle International Stadium
Cricket
Test
Galle
Score:
54
/ 60
Overview
Galle is rightfully on the bucket lists of many cricket fans. Sitting on the same spit of land as Galle Fort, whose walls packed with spectators getting a free bird’s eye view of the game loom over the south end of the ground, and with the Indian Ocean all around it is a truly unique venue. The facilities could do with an upgrade, but the food is good, the beer is cheap, and there’s a more expensive air-conditioned tent option for spectators unused to the unrelenting tropical heat and sunshine. Sri Lankan fans are exuberant and friendly, and the pull of Galle ensures a healthy contingent of away fans will be in attendance, particularly if England or Australia are in town. If you’re planning a trip to Sri Lanka, make sure it coincides with a Test at Galle. You won’t regret it.
Also make sure that you spend some time watching from the fort. The view from the walls is truly spectacular, with the new town to the north, the ocean on either side, and the ground in the centre. You'll meet home fans sneaking out for an extended lunch break or catching the close after they finish work, or schoolkids bunking off or running up the stairs after they've finished for the day. Away fans and curious tourists also congregate to experience this iconic spectator experience.
Score Summaries
Atmosphere & Experience: 10
It’s perfect, or as near to it as you’re ever going to get. Sat out on a grass bank, surrounded by passionate Sri Lankan fans or away supporters making the cricket trip of a lifetime, you come to appreciate the power and the beauty of cricket. When impromptu games break out all around you during the lunch and tea intervals, you’ll see cultures, nationalities, and generations come together with a childlike joy rarely experienced in everyday life. The relentless, restless hum of Galle’s traffic, the sound of the breeze coming in off the ocean, the distant crashing of waves that breaks through in the rare moments when a bus isn’t blaring its horn. It’s the perfect soundtrack. As the sun starts to go down and figures stood on the walls of the fort are silhouetted in the dying light, you won’t want the close of play to come.
On the walls, the atmosphere is relaxed and convivial. Sri Lankans strike up conversation with away fans and explain the rules to curious, but uninitiated, tourists.
Seats: 9
Booking in advance before travelling to Sri Lanka, I opted for a premium ticket in an air-conditioned marquee set up behind the bowler’s arm at the north end of the ground. Price-wise, it was comparable to a standard ticket to a Test match in the UK, roughly £100. I booked through eticketing.co. Honestly, I was a little worried by identity had been stolen as I booked. I breathed a sigh of relief when I arrived on the day and it turned out that I did, indeed, have a ticket and nobody other than me had been abusing my credit limit. Seats in the marquee were comfortable, the air conditioning was a blissful relief from the heat, but I spent most of the day sitting around the grass banks and in the lower tier of the pavilion because it was much more atmospheric. I did get five drinks tokens with my premium ticket, which was a nice addition.
I don’t think I’ve sat anywhere more breathtaking to watch sport than the walls of the old fort. I had wanted to experience the view from there ever since I first saw a match from Galle on TV. It did not disappoint. Make sure you spend some time up there.
Catering: 9
For the uninitiated, kottu is a delicious Sri Lankan dish made from finely chopped roti accompanied by meat and/or vegetables. If you haven’t tried it before, you could do a lot worse than the version served in the pavilion at Galle. It’s made before your eyes and it tastes divine. Lion beer is available on tap and you can get 1.5L bottles of water, which you’ll need. Especially if you find yourself facing an enthusiastic amateur Sri Lankan fast bowler armed with a tennis ball at lunch.
On the walls, the occasional drinks seller will do the rounds with water and soft drinks.
Facilities: 6
In the pavilion, they’re not great. Falling apart and not the cleanest.
No facilities at the fort.
Getting There: 9.5
A short walk or an even shorter tuktuk ride from inside the fort.
Getting to the walls of the fort is even easier if you’re already staying within them.
Getting Away: 9.5
With the heat losing its edge as the sun goes down, it’s a pretty comfortable walk back to the fort after the close.
If you’re on the walls at the close of play, consider walking around to west side of the fort to see the sun set over the Indian Ocean. A perfect end to a perfect day.