Stadio Olimpico

Overview
The sight of an imposing obelisk inscribed with ‘Mussolini Dux’ as you approach the main gate and the repetition of the fascist slogan ‘duce a noi’ (leader to us) on the flagstones of the Viale del Foro Italico are a stark reminder that the complex within which the Stadio Olimpico sits was built at the behest of Italy’s former fascist ruler. Mussolini had hoped that the 1940 Olympic Games would be held in Rome, and the Foro Italico was part of an unsuccessful hosting bid (the Games were awarded to Tokyo, then Helsinki following the outbreak of the Second Sino-Japanese War, then cancelled following the outbreak of WWII). If you can get past the political sloganeering and dictatorial flourishes, the neo-classical depictions of athletes on the paving and the impressive statues that encircle the Stadio dei Marmi are something to behold.

The fan village set up outside the Olimpico on Six Nations match days provides an excellent range of affordable food and drink options pre- and post-match. If the Italian crowd are feeling buoyant following a home victory, you might be treated to a bonus match played with maximum disregard for personal safety on the concrete around the big screens that show subsequent Six Nations games. The exhibition of amateurish violence I saw featured a man in full Pope regalia attempting to referee a dangerously inebriated mob of Italians and Scots and was arguably more entertaining than the main event.

Once inside, the stadium reveals itself to be a little worse for wear and the quality of the catering options drops off a very steep cliff. The pitch is pretty distant, but most seats around the ground provide a good view and are relatively affordable compared to all five other stadiums in the competition. The passion of the Italian fans, especially in a tight game, and the generally large numbers of away supporters create a raucous atmosphere that is absolutely worth the journey and the expense.

Atmosphere & Experience: 9
The Six Nations has some rabble-rousing anthems (and one deeply dreary one), and Il Canto degli Italiani has a strong claim to be the most uproarious of them all. Sung heartily by 50,000 Italians who’ve made their way through a quarter of a million Peroni, it sets the tone perfectly for what’s to come. If it’s their day, Italy’s supporters, so rarely treated to seeing their team on the right side of the scoreline over the years, bring a degree of energy to their celebrations rarely seen at a rugby stadium. As an away fan, it’s almost enough to take the sting out of seeing your team fall to the Azzurri. So infectious is this enthusiasm that I see multiple Scotland fans joining in with the dancing and chanting as the match wears on. After the game, a few thousand diehard fans gather in front of the DJ stage set up in the fan village, dancing their hearts out and singing. They hit full volume when their victorious team make a post-match appearance on-stage to display the reclaimed Cuttitta Cup. A visit to the Stadio Olimpico should absolutely be near the top of every rugby fan’s bucket list.

Seats: 9
€112 is indisputably a large sum of money. However, for a category two ticket it’s significantly less than one can expect to pay at every other Six Nations ground. And, if you can handle the vertigo-inducing stairs, the sideline view encompassing the entire field of play represents pretty good value for money. If, as was the case when I attended, the heavens open to such an extent that you begin to fear you might be witnessing the beginning of a vengeful deity’s sequel to Noah’s Ark, you’ll also be protected from a soaking (this will absolutely not be the case if you’re sitting close to the front lower down in the stadium, so beware).

Catering: 9
If the fare on offer in the fan village were also available within the stadium itself, this would be a 10. In the village, you can enjoy everything from lobster rolls to meatball subs and Roman-style pizza. And all of them actually look good. Once you’ve passed through the ticket gates, however, your choice reduces to Tuc biscuits and mini tubs of Oreos. It’s like you’ve left Italy and entered a food desert where you can only buy the sort of long-life goods you’d expect to find in a nuclear fallout shelter. So get there early, or stay afterwards, and take advantage of one of the most varied and highest-quality food offerings to be found in a national stadium. Plus, there are plenty of bars and drinks are relatively cheap.

Facilities: 2
Nothing’s ever perfect, is it? The Stadio Olimpico proves this by having one of the more terror-inducing halftime bathroom experiences you’re likely to have anywhere in the world. Simply put, you will rapidly find yourself into a lung-squeezing crush of people pushing their way towards one of the few sets of bathrooms around the ground. It will be a long and uncomfortable wait with the lack of any discernible queue meaning it’s everyone for themselves. Abandon any hope you had of going to the loo and getting a drink before the second half kicks off and just be thankful you made it out in one piece.

Getting There: 8
If travelling from the city centre, a good option is to head to Flaminio Station, from which you can take the number 2 tram to Mancini. Alternatively, you can opt for the 40-minute walk to the stadium from Flaminio. From there, it’s a roughly 15-minute walk, crossing the Tiber, to the stadium. Buses 280 and 32 in the vicinity of Vatican City will take you De Bosis/Stadio Tenis, from which it’s a few minutes’ walk to the stadium entrance.

Getting Away: 8
Buses and trams will be crowded, and you can expect a fairly long wait. If possible, you would be better off walking to Flaminio and on to your final destination from there.